The Founder

June 25, 1821 – an ad in the ‘Missouri Intelligencer’ in booming Franklin, Missouri, called for a company of men to ride along on a trading expedition with the Indians. The gentleman who placed the ad was Captain William Becknell. Little did he know his name would become famous as the founder of the Santa Fe Trail. Some speculate that he was never going to trade with the Indians and his plan was to go to Mexico all along. When they set out Becknell had no idea if they would be welcomed or thrown in jail by the Spanish, who wanted to keep Mexico for themselves.

His initial journey began on the first day of September. He took with him about a dozen men, and was risking all on a venture that would either make him rich or would be his death.

Becknell and his band crossed the Missouri in the fall of 1821 and rode west. They didn’t find any Indians, but on November 16, 1821, the travel weary band rode into Santa Fe, where they were greeted with open arms and mobbed for their meager goods. The Mexican’s had defeated the Spanish, and were now desperate to trade. Becknell returned to Franklin taking a short cut he’d guessed at, across eastern New Mexico, with silver coins packed in rawhide bags. The short cut took them 48 days, (29 days less than their western journey), and is now known as the ‘Cimarron Cutoff’.

After returning Becknell realized he could make a lot of money and discovered a Wagon could make the journey, so he put together a team. On May 22, 1822 Becknell took 3 Wagons loaded with merchandise, twenty four oxen and twenty one men along the Santa Fe Trail. This time he took the route we now know as the Cimarron Cutoff, because the Raton Pass in Colorado would be impassable for Wagons. Many people thought Becknell to be insane but he was undeterred. His vision extended beyond the great rolling plains, and the hordes of war-like Indians that would swamp down on him by the thousands; he was looking beyond the treacherous quicksand of the river bottoms and the impassable mountains. He saw at the end of all this, a new Empire, a new horizon lined with gold, and the glory of this sight caused him to laugh at the dangers that lay at his feet. Entering Kansas the wagon train encountered, terrible mud which caused the 7,000 pound wagons to sink to almost their hubs, (this caused the group to stop and wait for the ground to dry in order to carry on). They ran into reasonably friendly Osage Indians, and gave them trinkets. They were followed most of the journey by smaller groups of Indians. With the constant threat of attack their nerves were frayed. Once they crossed the Arkansas River they were in Comanche territory and into the ‘Jornada”, (the name given to the Cimarron Cutoff meaning Journey), the desert between the Arkansas and Cimarron rivers. Comanche’s appeared but they were unwilling to attack due to the large wagon train. After two days in the desert they’d emptied their canteens and the water holes had dried up. They were in grave danger of losing their oxen and their own lives. Tongues were swollen, eyes were bloodshot, mirages of lakes and streams tempted them and soon they were close to saying goodbye to the world. Becknell apparently made one last attempt to find water and came across a herd of buffalo. He picked up his gun and fired, hitting one in the heart. He knew the buffalo never venture into the desert without a full stomach of water. Becknell cut through the flesh to the stomach, which was distended with gallons of water. He took a drink and went back to his men giving them the reprieve they’d prayed for. The presence of the buffalo meant that water was nearby, so Becknell set off again in search, and found the Cimarron River where he filled up canteens. He was able to save the lives of many of his men. A month later his ‘Caravan of Death’ gazed down at the city of Santa Fe, New Mexico and a half crazed cheer went up from his men. They had made it and had blazed a new trail which would be used for years to come.

The news of Becknells' achievement spread like wildfire and soon the trail was being used by traders, entrepreneurs and business men, all wanting to make their fortune.

The Route

The Santa Fe Trail became the main Commercial road taking merchants from the East to the West from 1821 – 1870. It carried American trade goods, to the West and Mexican Silver and Mules to the East. Starting in Old Franklin, Missouri and in later years Independence, travelers went west across the Missouri line or west through Westport, then South West through Olathe. The two roads joined near Gardiner, Kansas and proceeded through Palmyra, now Baldwin City, and on to the Neosho at Council Grove. From here they passed Diamond Spring, then Lost Spring and negotiated a hellacious crossing of Cottonweed Creek, then arrived at the Little Arkansas. A few days later they crossed Walnut Creek and arrived at the Arkansas River. Past present Great Bend they came into view of Pawnee Rock, a startling landmark rising abruptly from the Kansas plain. If it were the 1860’s and if the day were clear, the garrison flag from Fort Larned could be seen from the top of that rock.The caravans then rolled past present Dodge City where they often stopped to examine two deep holes in the earth. They were located where an early caravan fell upon hard times, and had to cache their goods until they could go on the Santa Fe and return with a new stock of mules to haul it to pay dirt. “The Caches” were there until early in the twentieth century when local ranching operations gradually filled in the cavities, and now nobody knows exactly where they were.

They then left the valley near the present town of Cimarron, to head South West near Lakin, Kansas. At Cimarron was where the trail split into two. They could either take the ‘Mountain Trail’, which headed West into Colorado, then South to New Mexico across the rugged Raton Pass, or the Cimarron Route (Cimarron Cutoff), which headed South West across the corner of Colorado.

The ‘Cimarron Cutoff’ was the shortest route, shaving almost 100 miles (ten days) off the journey; however it was also the most perilous, and known as La Jornada (the Journey). Some even called it ‘Jornada del Muerte’, the ‘Journey of Death’! It was an Indian-infested, waterless stretch, but many traders considered the route worth the danger as it shaved nearly a week of extra traveling had they taken the Mountain Branch of the Santa Fe Trail. There are many harrowing stories of trader’s journeys along the Cimarron Cutoff. Tails of desert conditions, Indian attacks, and lack of water make it hard to imagine what they may have gone through. It was never known if the scarce watering holes would actually contain water.

Taking the Cimarron Cutoff, they were now on the feared Jornada. As the traders approached the Cimarron they came across a hole in the ground from which issued fairly decent water. In ranching days this became known as Wagon Bed Spring, in early days it was simply the Lower Spring.They saw a sliver of land laying on the horizon like a lead pencil; near its point – the “Point of Rocks” was another spring also on the Cimarron. That spring, Middle Spring, still flows, impounded by beavers.

Crossing the Cimarron at a wooded sandspit called Willow Bar the traders then came to Upper spring, later know as Flag Spring. The other two springs were fairly sedate; this one was and still is spectacular. Surrounded by towering rocks, it is now dammed to a sequestered pool, a setting so peaceful it is impossible to imagine the violence surrounding the place, when the Comanche’s and Kiowa’s were the landlords, and the traders were the tenants who paid their rent with blood and hair. Passing Cold Spring, the Rabbit Ears came into view. Looking not the least bit like rabbit ears they were actually named for an Indian chief of that time.

Far ahead was Sierra Grande, and to the left, Round Mound, now know as Mount Clayton. It is a fairly symmetrical cone, fitting its name no better than Rabbit Ears.The trail then crosses the Canadian River the only place it could, at a shallow crossing of solid rock. To the left a canyon up to several hundred feet deep extended for more than one hundred miles. To the right is deep sand for many miles.

Next came a landmark about which there could be no guessing, Wagon Mound. Looking for all the world like a huge freight wagon perched atop a pyramidical pedestal, Wagon Mound was in view for three or four days, as the wagons ground toward it at the rate of fifteen to eighteen miles a day.There could be no doubt about it now – the teamsters were in another world. The Anglo culture had been replaced with the Hispanic. The settlements were formed of adobe, not frame. There was a dryness to the air, making the warmth of the suntolerable. There was a warmth of welcome too, as uninhibited New Mexicans let them know they appreciated their efforts.

Because of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the old roadway had to go far to the south of Santa Fe, through the settlement of San Miguel, before it could turn to the northwest to enter the fabled city of Santa Fe. On that last stretch the travelers were able to view the ancient pueblo of Pecos, long since abandoned. The last barrier, Glorieta Pass was destined to become the site of a pivotal battle of the Civil War. Finally the weary travelers caught sight of their dusty destination from the heights above Santa Fe. That was an exhilarating experience, never to be forgotten by any trader.

Trials and Tribulations

When deciding to take the Cimarron Cutoff the first feat was to cross the Arkansas which in itself was difficult, as there was no good crossing place. Quicksand and holes bogged and tipped wagons and soaked cargo. Harnesses would break and tangle and teams would have to be hitched and unhitched. While the cargo dried in the sun, men filled everything they could with water and the cooks prepared food for a couple of days. This was not going to be easy. Not only was water and grass for grazing an issue, the dry heat and tough roads played havoc on the wagons. The wood of wagon beds and parts shrank and as the wooden wheels shrank the iron rims loosened and even came off. Repairs were needed almost daily and anything readily available was used.Indian raids were common and in 1847 following the American/Mexican war, the Army built forts at strategic points, and Fort Larned started escorting all the trade caravans as the Indian attacks increased. The wagons would travel four abreast because it took far less time to form breastworks of wagons by traveling this way than in a single line. And time was of the essence in defending against Indian attack. It is said, from incomplete records, that in 1847 alone trader’s losses totaled 330 wagons, 6500 animals and 47 dead traders and teamsters. In 1868 from Fort Larned, George Custer was responsible for vastly reducing the number of Indian attacks on the trail. In 1870 the railroad that ended the Trail came through.

Although the Indians were a big problem the desert could be fatal too. There are stories of traders seeing mirages, people so tired and weary, falling asleep to the wagons monotonous creaking and fall off the wagon under the wheels. This was a surprisingly common accident. It was recommended that one should leave in the early spring, where water should be more abundant and the grass would be green to feed the livestock. That had its downside. It meant there would be more rain, which can cause problems itself, but add to that the mud, and you have the ingredients for an arduous journey. Trying to pull out a wagon stuck up to its hubs, calls for ‘all hands on the wheels’.

There a fair amount of those that left later, but this had different problems. The cold and the snow claimed many a traveler and many more stock. One story tells of how the men gave up their blankets for the animals, because if the animals died, they had no way out, and 200 miles away from anywhere with no water and no wood for fire is a harrowing thought. The Santa Fe Trail was a hard road no matter which route you took. It was imperative that supplies be taken to ensure wagons kept rolling and animals survived. Life on the Santa Fe Trail was difficult. Even without the Indian attacks, buffalo stampedes, flooded rivers, violent prairie storms, sticky mud and desert like conditions, the journey was a monotonous 900 miles of difficult country. Books and movies tell of the adventure and death when quite often all traders experienced was dust, knats, mosquito’s and heat. But occasionally swollen streams, wildfires, hailstorms, strong winds or blizzards could imperil wagon trains. At dawn, trail hands would scramble in noise and confusion to round up, sort and hitch the animals. The wagons headed out with cries of “All’s set” and soon, “Catch up; catch up” and “Stretch out”.

At mid-morning they would stop with crews unhitching and grazing the teams. Water would be hauled, wood or buffalo chips gathered for fuel, and they would cook and eat the main meal of the day. The monotonous daily ration was 1lb. of flour, 1lb. or so of sowbelly bacon, 1oz. of coffee, 2oz. of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Beans, dried apples or buffalo and other game were occasional treats. Once they ate, wagons, yokes and harnesses would be repaired, wagon wheels greased, animals doctored and hunting took place. They moved on soon after noon fording streams before the nights stop as overnight storms could make trickling streams into raging torrents before morning. At the end of the day crews took care of the animals, made necessary repairs, chose night guards and enjoyed a few hours of well earned leisure and sleep time. This went on day in day out for 8 weeks.

The Santa Fe Trail influenced economies as far away as New York and London. It created opportunities not only for trading American made goods but English goods too. It enabled business to increase. People opened up warehouses, made trail wagons (sturdier and heavier to make the arduous journey). Blacksmiths, hotel owners, muleteers, lawyers and many others found their places along the trail. In 1822, trade on the Trail totaled $15,000; by 1860, $3.5 million, or more than $53 million in today’s dollars. It opened up the West to the World.

To the present day the achievement of Becknell may seem tame and lacking in adventurous glamour. The great plains of Kansas are now rich wheat fields. Mile-a-minute express trains carry passengers across this stretch of 800 miles. Wide concrete highways permit automobiles to spread over that expanse of country with the comfort and speed unknown to even a king in 1822. Planes now cover in 1 hour what, 183 years ago took months.The wagon ruts are still visible in various parts of the trail. Some are deeply eroded but most are simply linear depressions in the unbroken sod of the prairies. They remind us of a time we find it hard to imagine. But where would we be now without the guts and insight of Captain William Becknell and many others like him!

In the early twentieth century, The Daughters of the American Revolution traveled the Santa Fe Trail and placed 170 markers along its length. These are two by three feet granite monuments indicating the route taken by many men and few women.